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Gardening & Outdoors

How to Start a Vegetable Garden from Scratch

A first-season plan from bare ground to first harvest

What's inside the full guide

  1. Start Small and Choose the Right Spot
  2. Know Your Climate and Planting Dates
  3. Prepare the Soil
  4. Choose Easy Crops and Plan the Layout
  5. Planting Seeds and Transplants
  6. Watering, Mulching, Feeding and Weeding
  7. Harvesting and Planning Next Season
  8. First Garden Planner and Season Log (printable worksheet)

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This guide is for anyone who has never grown food before and wants a clear plan instead of a pile of conflicting tips. You will learn how to choose a site, prepare soil, pick easy crops, plant at the right time and keep everything alive through the season. By the end you will have a small, productive garden and a record of what to repeat next year.

Start Small and Choose the Right Spot

The most common beginner mistake is starting too big. A large plot looks exciting in spring and becomes a weed field by midsummer. For a first season, aim for one bed of about 1.2 m by 2.4 m (4 ft by 8 ft), or four to six large containers. That is enough to grow a meaningful amount of food while staying manageable in 20 to 30 minutes a few times a week.

Location matters more than anything you buy. Most fruiting vegetables, such as tomatoes, peppers, squash and beans, need at least six hours of direct sun, and eight is better. Leafy greens and herbs will tolerate four to five hours. Before you dig, watch the spot on a sunny day and note when it gets sun and when it falls into shade from buildings, fences or trees. Remember that trees leaf out in spring, so a spot that is sunny in early spring may be shaded by June.

  • Sun: six to eight hours of direct light for most crops.
  • Water access: close enough to a tap that watering is easy. If you have to haul cans across the yard, you will water less.
  • Drainage: avoid low spots where puddles sit for hours after rain.
  • Distance from trees: tree roots compete hard for water and nutrients; keep beds outside the drip line where possible.
  • Visibility: a bed you walk past every day gets noticed and cared for.
Do a sun map: Check the spot at 9 am, noon, 3 pm and 6 pm on one sunny day and write down whether it is in sun or shade each time. Ten minutes of observation saves a season of weak plants.

Know Your Climate and Planting Dates

Vegetables are split roughly into cool-season crops, which handle light frost and prefer mild weather, and warm-season crops, which are killed by frost and sulk in cold soil. Timing your planting to your local frost dates is the single biggest factor in early success.

Find your average last spring frost and first autumn frost dates. These vary widely by region and even between neighbouring towns, so check a local source: your national or regional agricultural extension service, a government horticulture site, a local allotment or garden club, or a reputable seed company that lists dates by postcode or zip code. In the US, plant hardiness zone maps are widely used; other countries use their own systems. Treat any frost date as an average, not a promise, and keep an eye on the forecast.

Crop typeExamplesWhen to plant outdoors
Cool-seasonLettuce, spinach, peas, radishes, kale2 to 6 weeks before last spring frost, and again in late summer for autumn
Warm-seasonTomatoes, peppers, beans, squash, cucumbersAfter last frost, once nights stay above about 10 C (50 F)
Long-season heat loversPeppers, aubergine (eggplant), melonsUse transplants, plant after soil warms, protect from cold nights
Soil warmth counts: Seeds of beans and squash often rot in cold, wet soil. If the soil feels cold to your hand a few centimetres down, wait another week. A cheap soil thermometer removes the guesswork.

Get the rest: the full step-by-step guide plus a printable worksheet for $4.

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