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Fix the flowers-but-no-fruit problem and pick all summer
This guide is for gardeners whose tomato plants grow big and leafy but give few ripe fruits, or who want to get it right the first time. You will learn which varieties to choose, how to plant, water, feed and support tomatoes, and how to diagnose the common reasons flowers drop or fruit fails. It works for beds, raised beds and large pots.
A tomato plant can only produce fruit if three things line up: the plant has enough energy from sunlight, the flowers are pollinated, and the temperature is within a range where pollen works. Most disappointing harvests come down to one of a handful of causes, and nearly all of them are fixable.
| Symptom | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Lush leaves, few flowers | Too much nitrogen fertiliser, or too little sun | Stop high-nitrogen feeds, switch to a tomato feed, move pots to sun |
| Flowers open then drop | Temperatures too hot or too cold for pollination | Wait for milder weather, shade in heatwaves, plant at the right time |
| Flowers but no fruit set | Poor pollination, often in still air or under cover | Gently shake or tap flower trusses on dry, warm mornings |
| Small, few fruit | Plant stressed by crowding, drought or small pot | Increase spacing, water deeply, use a larger container |
| Black patch on fruit base | Blossom end rot, linked to uneven watering | Water consistently and mulch |
| Fruit stays green for weeks | Cool weather or late planting | Be patient, remove late flowers so energy goes to existing fruit |
Temperature is the hidden cause many growers miss. As a general guide, tomato flowers set fruit best when daytime temperatures are roughly 21 to 29 C (70 to 85 F) and nights stay above about 13 C (55 F). Extended spells outside that range, especially hot nights, often cause flowers to drop. You cannot control the weather, but you can control planting time, variety choice and some shading.
Variety choice has a big effect on how much you pick. Tomatoes come in two main growth habits, and knowing which you have changes how you prune and support them.
Check the seed packet or label for days to maturity, which is the approximate time from transplanting to first ripe fruit. If your summers are short or cool, choose varieties listed at around 50 to 70 days. If you have had disease problems before, look for varieties described as resistant or tolerant to common problems such as blight, fusarium or verticillium wilt. Local nurseries and garden clubs can tell you which varieties do well in your area.
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