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Gardening & Outdoors

How to Fix Yellow Leaves on Houseplants

Read the clues, find the cause and bring your plant back to green

What's inside the full guide

  1. First, Do Not Panic
  2. Read the Pattern
  3. The Five-Minute Check
  4. Fixing Watering Problems
  5. Fixing Light, Temperature and Humidity
  6. Fixing Feeding and Repotting Problems
  7. Dealing with Pests and Knowing When to Let Go
  8. Yellow Leaf Detective Sheet (printable worksheet)

Free preview

This guide is for anyone looking at a houseplant with yellowing leaves and wondering what they did wrong. Yellow leaves are a symptom, not a disease, and the pattern of yellowing tells you a lot about the cause. You will learn how to read those clues, run a quick five-minute check, and fix the most common problems: watering, light, feeding, temperature and pests. Most plants recover well once the cause is put right.

First, Do Not Panic

Every plant sheds old leaves now and then. If one or two of the oldest, lowest leaves turn yellow and drop while the rest of the plant looks healthy and is putting out new growth, that is usually normal ageing. The plant is reabsorbing nutrients from leaves it no longer needs. You can leave the leaf to fall or snip it off once it is fully yellow.

It is time to investigate when several leaves yellow at once, when new leaves are yellow, when yellowing comes with brown patches, spots, wilting, or a soft stem, or when the problem keeps spreading week after week. Do not respond by immediately watering, feeding or repotting. Doing the wrong thing in a hurry is the most common way a slightly unhappy plant becomes a dead one.

Golden rule: Change one thing at a time and give the plant two to three weeks to respond. Yellow leaves will not turn green again, so judge progress by the new growth, not the old leaves.

Read the Pattern

Where and how the yellowing appears is your best clue. Use this table as a starting point, then confirm with the checks in the next section.

What you seeMost likely causeOther signs
Lower leaves yellow and soft, compost wetOverwateringMusty smell, fungus gnats, drooping despite wet soil
Leaves yellow with crispy brown edges, compost dryUnderwateringCompost pulling away from pot sides, pot feels light
Older leaves evenly pale yellow, slow growthLack of nutrients (often nitrogen)Not fed for months, same compost for years
New leaves yellow with green veinsNutrient uptake problem (often iron or magnesium)Hard tap water, compost too wet or very old
Whole plant pale, leaning, long gaps between leavesToo little lightPlant far from window, slow or no new growth
Bleached yellow or white patches on sunny sideSun scorchRecent move into direct sun
Yellow speckles, fine webbing or sticky leavesPestsTiny moving dots, white fluff, honeydew
Sudden yellowing and leaf dropShock from a move, draught or coldRecent change of position, near a door or heater

Some popular plants have their own habits worth knowing, so you do not mistake normal behaviour for a problem.

  • Pothos and philodendron: yellow leaves are very often a sign of overwatering. Let the top third of the compost dry between waterings.
  • Peace lily: droops dramatically when dry and recovers within hours of watering. Repeated yellow leaves usually mean it sits wet or in too much direct sun.
  • Snake plant and ZZ plant: store water in thick leaves or roots and rot easily. Yellow, soft leaves almost always mean too much water, especially in winter.
  • Fiddle leaf fig: sulks after being moved and may drop or yellow leaves. Pick a bright spot and leave it there.
  • Monstera: a single older leaf yellowing now and then is normal. Several at once usually points to watering or light.
  • Spider plant: brown or yellow tips are often caused by dry air or minerals in tap water rather than a serious problem.

Get the rest: the full step-by-step guide plus a printable worksheet for $4.

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